Sunday, March 11, 2012

Woodsdale Is Missing

By Randy McNutt


Ghost towns are plentiful in Ohio. Their stories and history add to the Buckeye State’s culture and lore.
 
In Butler County’s Madison Township, near Trenton, lies one of the more lively ghost towns, a place named Woodsdale. It was once the home of Amish-Mennonites, a resort, and a paper mill.

These days, the town consists of a large electric-generating plant and the Chrisholm Farmstead, operated by the Friends of Chrisholm Farmstead and the Butler County MetroParks. Christian Augspurger led the area’s early Amish-Mennonites to Butler County from Alsace in 1829, and settled in what was then a rural area. A year later, he started a farm and built a stone farmhouse. From there he welcomed more Amish immigrants and helped them on their westward journey. When Augspurger died in 1848, a son, Samuel, inherited the farm. In the 1860s he joined with the Beckett Paper Co. of Hamilton in starting a paper mill in the Amish area, creating a town called Woodsdale. It was named after a county founder and leader, Thomas Woods. Soon it became a growing town with 100 residents and several businesses, a school, and a post office. It continued to grow until the paper mill’s fortunes reversed.

In 1874, the Augspurger farmhouse burned. Samuel replaced it with a brick house a year later. This is the same house that stands on the farm today.

In the late 1800s, people came to Woodsdale Island, located between the Ohio-Erie Canal and the Great Miami River. It became a popular resort until a fire destroyed a major building about 1900. After that, few people had reason to visit Woodsdale, and the town was nearly forgotten by many people in the county.
 
In the 1980s, the Trenton and Ohio historical societies began to dream of acquiring the Augspurger farm, with its huge barn and farmhouse. The house had become run-down rental property, but worth restoring. When the Cincinnati Gas & Electric Co. bought the property in 1989 to build a generating plant, the company donated the farm to the nonprofit groups.

Today, volunteers continue to improve the 259-acre farm and its buildings. Last year, volunteers of the Friends of Chrisholm planted a garden at the rear of the farmhouse. They have continued to work on the garden this year. They call it the Friends Memorial Garden. “There are no pesticides used in this garden, and it is an easy way to teach organics, composting, and other sustainable practices,” said Judy Shillinglaw, a master gardener and volunteer.

Other goals of Friends of Chrisholm for 2011 include: reduce energy costs, help MetroParks as it develops a strategic plan for the site, obtain grants for various projects on site, and help pay for the Doris L. Page Internship program.

Approval of a MetroParks operating levy last fall “means that Chrisholm will continue to remain open to the public, and allow for needed improvement to be made at the park,” said Laura Konnert, president of Friends of Chrisholm.

She said the group will continue to work with MetroParks to determine how to improve the farmhouse’s heating and cooling system—and save on other costs.

Meanwhile, visitors continue to come to the Farmstead for the annual This Old Farm Days celebration, held over Labor Day weekend. On Sept. 11, a Civil War quilt presentation and house tour will be held at the old brick home.

Randy McNutt is the author of twenty books, including two about Ohio ghost towns and regional history—“Ghosts” and “Lost Ohio.” He lives in Hamilton.



           
           

From Blue Ball to Busenbark

By Randy McNutt


Butler County operates on two levels—past and present. Sometimes the two cross paths. The past is littered with dead communities, or ghost towns, that once stood across the county and the region. They are good for exploring on autumn days when the weather is warmer and the leaves are changing colors.

Here are a few of the more interesting ones:

At Alert-New London Road at Howards Creek in Morgan Township is the site of Alert, which today consists of a few barns and houses. The town name originated with the Literary Association of Morgan and Crosby Townships in 1821. The group operated an early library. Area farmers started calling the little community Alert, as in “Those people certainly are alert, aren’t they?” They meant intelligent, or well read. To the uneducated pioneers of the period, the library alerted townspeople to the happenings of the world. Through the years, Alert didn’t grow much. A post office opened there in 1850, and closed in 1904. By then, all but a few businesses had disappeared. Alert became just another ghost town name.

On the old Dixie Highway, I found Blue Ball. It is one of Butler County’s most recognized ghost towns. The former unincorporated community doesn’t exist—in name—any longer because Middletown annexed it and its 752 residents in 1993. It began as an early Ohio stagecoach stop, inviting passengers to spend the night at an inn with a big blue ball mounted on a pole. This was to summon illiterate stagecoach drivers. The town’s claim to fame: a guest on the Tonight Show once mentioned the name to a bemused Johnny Carson. When I roamed around Blue Ball, the area was busy with traffic and shoppers at Lowe's and a Target store. Not far away I noticed a big blue ball that somebody had hung from a pole. That was about the only connection to the stagecoach days. 

Busenbark, in St. Clair Township, began in the 1850s as a stop on the Cincinnati, Hamilton & Dayton Railroad. The company bought land from a farmer named Robert Busenbark, for whom the little town was named. Its biggest event occurred on Aug. 31, 1867, when 3,000 spectators watched Mike McCoole, the 190-pound American boxing champion, fight Aaron Jones, the 175-pound English champion in a bare-knuckled duke-out. After knocking out Jones, McCoole was named the world champ. He left the ring and leaped over a fence to show how much strength he had left. The unfortunate Jones suffered two broken ribs, a concussion, and internal bleeding. A few weeks later, he died in a Cincinnati hospital. Later, Busenbark was known as the home of a 550-volt electric generating plant that powered traction cars.

In southern Butler County, my favorite ghost town is named Schnaps Town, named for Schnap’s Tavern on U.S. Route 4 in what is now Fairfield. The community was filled with Germans who drank locally brewed spirits, hence the local derivative of the German Schnapps. Later the town changed its name to a more mundane Furmandale, to honor a Hamilton educator named Furman.

Nearby, workers toiled in a sawmill, carding mill, distillery, and other factories in a town named Black Bottom. The town was named for the black, rich soil. Black Bottom died after the local paper mill moved to Hamilton in the 1850s. Nowadays, the paper mills are closing in Hamilton, victims of a digital world.


The Observer’s Randy McNutt is the author of Ghosts: Ohio’s Haunted Landscapes, Lost Arts, and Forgotten Places, from which this piece is partially excerpted.   


Now Entering Lost Ohio


Welcome to Lost Ohio, a blog dedicated to exploring forgotten places and neglected Ohioana. 

The site is named after my book Lost Ohio: More Travels into Haunted Landscapes, Ghost Towns, and Forgotten Lives. The blog will be used to share and receive more tales of missing Ohio communities and vanishing historical sites, provide news about the books (and the places I've written about), post new and old photos of interest to those of us who enjoy traveling the rural routes, view photos taken by Ohio ghost town enthusiasts, and discuss future projects. Most of all, the site will allow me to expand my writings about rural Ohio and its disappearing towns and culture. For the most part, stories on the blog will not appear in my books.

My first book in the "series" was Ghosts: Ohio's Haunted Landscapes, Lost Arts, and Forgotten Places, published in 1996 by Orange Frazer Press of Wilmington.  Initially, some people called it the "ghost town book," but then they realized it is also about the changing cultures of rural Ohio and America, the loss of our historic sites, and my own observations and connections to these subjects.

When the book went out of print about 2004, I started revamping it. I found some photographs I had shot on my trips, bought some old postcards and other Ohio paper memorabilia, and began adding more stories to the original manuscript. Three years later, while in Columbus to receive an award from the Ohio Genealogical Society, I met Barbara Gargiulo, owner of Little Miami Publishing in Milford. She agreed to publish a second edition of Ghosts featuring 270 pages and 36 photos and illustrations. With a new cover, this book is closer to what I wanted the book to look like originally. I wanted readers to see some of the people I met on my trips around Ohio. I also added two new chapters, lengthened a number of others to their original sizes, and added a fanciful map.

It took me ten years to get around to writing a second book like Ghosts, but I finally did it in 2006, when the Kent State Universitiy Press published Lost Ohio. That year it won the Ohio Genealogical Society's Henry Howe Award for best Ohio history.

I am happy to report that in September 2012 Kent State will publish the third book in the unofficial series: Finding Utopia: Another Journey into Lost Ohio. It is written in the same style as the first two books--in first person, using narrative chapters organized under several different book sections, and back matter that features colorfully named ghost towns and other sites. Like the first two books, Finding Utopia isn't exclusively about ghost towns. It will be about lost legends, vanishing Ohio, forgotten historical figures, people with big dreams, trips on back roads, and personal stories that connect us to an Ohio that is slipping away a little more each year. As development continues and technology changes the way we communicate, Ohio continues to become a more urban place.

In all three books, I hoped to chronicle the loss of our rural culture. If someone picks up the book fifty years from now, I want him or her to get a snapshot of what life was like in the old Ohio. This was one of my goals when I started writing these books.

In Ghosts, readers met some fading Buckeye characters--people with determination and spirit who chose to live in small towns that were dying or threatened by suburban growth. They included Charlie Potts, the century-old Clermont County man who couldn't stop farming in Branch Hill; Lawrence "Pood" Schaadt, who recalled the big Saturday-night boxing matches at the jewelry store in Glenmore in Van Wert County; and Carl Rudd, the Adams County man who opened what he called the world's largest Christmas display in rural--very rural--Blue Creek. In that book we went to lost places named Sodom (oh, yes!), Dull, San Toy, Mudsock, Knockemstiff, Temperanceville, Rialto, Henpeck, Hog Town, Moonville, Rural, and Surprise. We also met and heard stories about old-time bootleggers, tattooed chickens, canal wars, nitro shooters, mules and muskeetoes, hundred-year fires underground, big floods, and bad tempers.
Later, in Lost Ohio, we traveled through what was left of the Great Black Swamp, which once swallowed pioneers' dreams and wagons. In Waynesville, we looked for the ghost of Louisa Stetson Larrick, sister of the creator of the Stetson hat. Moving on, we  went searching for the town where thousands of people were married in the 1800s, and the authorities promptly forgot to record their weddings. Then we happened upon Bentonville in Adams County and became official members of the Bentonville Anti-Horse Thief Society. Finally, we stopped on the forgotten midways of Ohio to meet Harry Dearwester, king of the old cane rack game.

In Finding Utopia, you are invited to join me on the road again, to meet many new characters and, of course, to rediscover a Buckeye dream--Lost Ohio.




A picture of me visiting Amish country in 1994.




Lost Ohio

"Out there on black asphalt ribbons, deep in the heart of nowhere, I watch the images of towns and people grow smaller in my rearview mirror and finally fade to nothing. I feel at one with the speeding tires and the motion of the Jeep. In the cool rush of air on my sides, sometimes the movement seems strange yet vaguely familiar, as though it possesses a soul I once met but can't quite remember."

--From Lost Ohio, the Introduction


"Sometime in the dimness of the afternoon the snow stopped falling, and I drove home, alone, to confront my personal ghosts. Suddenly, everything I had seen and imagined on my trips--every town, every person  --came sharply into focus. My own life and brief time fit perfectly into a tiny corner of history. Passing the old fort grounds where Anthony Wayne and Michael Cahalane once walked, I realized my town is every man's town, and, for now, as good a place as any in which to make my stand."

--From Ghosts, Coda: Hometown



Where to Buy Them
Ghosts (ISBN 978-1-932250-64-0; $22.50) may be ordered at any bookstore or purchased directly from the publisher at www.littlemiamibooks.com. Lost Ohio (978-0-87338-872-6; $16.95) may be ordered from Amazon.com or from www.kentstateuniversitypress.com. 



Contents xi
Introduction: Charlie Potts' America 1

I. Leaving Their Mark
1. Getting on the Map   9
2. Boomtown   19
3. The Ghost of the Irish   33
4. The Big Washout   49
5. The Ghost of Mad Anthony   61

II. Forgotten Places
6. A Leisurely Tour of Downtown Dull   77
7. Knockemstiff, U.S.A.   85
8. Mudsock Is Missing   93
9. The Quest for Sodom   101
10. Looking for Rural   105
11. The Town That Had Everything   115
12. The Town Least Likely   123

III. Back Roads
13. Keepers of the Past   133
14. Toots Corner   143
15. Statue of Ohio Liberty  147
16. Top Brass   153
17. The Last of Eugene   161
18. The Bootleg Capital of Ohio   167

IV. First-Person Buckeye
19. Reflections of the Lake   177
20. Country Correspondence   191
21. A Hollow Christmas   201
22. Coda: Hometown   211

V. The Naming of Ohio   227

Bibliography   251
Index   255






 Contents

Introduction: Forgotten Ohio

Part One: Big Dreams  
1. The Life and Times of Fizzleville   3
2. Death of the Patriarch   10
3. Venice Times Two   20
4. Footville is Where the Worlds Meet   33
5. Sodaville or Bust   40

Part Two: Lost Legends
6. Journey to the Center of Obscurity   53
7. Separate Spirits   66
8. The Song of Mount Nebo   79
9. A View from the Tower   90
10. Louisa's Legacy   102
11. Travels in the Great Black Swamp   111
12. The Marrying Kind   128
13. The King of Ashville   137

Part Three: Vanishing Ohio
14. A Little Good News   147
15. The Riders of Bentonville   155
16. Satisfying an Agrarian Myth   167
17. Harry and the Midway   172
18. By Any Other Name:
Ghost Towns and Fabled Obscurities   179

Bibliography   202
Index   207